Includes B&W illustrations
Claire Allen-Johnstone’s Dress, Feminism, and New Woman Writing explores the vital intersections between fashion, gender politics, and literature in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century Britain. At a time when women’s roles and rights were under heated debate, clothing became central to feminist discourse. Authors and publishers used dress strategically—from cross-dressing storylines and critiques of restrictive fashion to the symbolic power of stylish attire—to articulate a new feminist identity.
Focusing on Olive Schreiner, Sarah Grand, George Egerton, and Grant Allen, while drawing in figures such as Charlotte Perkins Gilman, Allen-Johnstone offers an interdisciplinary analysis that combines literary interpretation, sartorial biography, and even book cover design. Through the lens of dress, this study reexamines Victorian gender norms, stereotypes, and the development of the New Woman character, offering a groundbreaking new perspective on feminist writing.
Frequently Asked Questions About the New Woman and Dress
Why was dress so important to the New Woman movement?
Dress was never a superficial detail in the late Victorian feminist context. Clothing was tied to gender norms and stereotypes, making it central to women’s struggles for autonomy. Allen-Johnstone shows how authors used fashion both as critique and as a tool of empowerment in their fiction.
How did New Woman writers use clothing in their literature?
From cross-dressing heroines to critiques of corsets, New Woman fiction often foregrounded dress as a way of challenging gender expectations. Allen-Johnstone demonstrates how these storylines transformed fashion into a narrative strategy that supported feminist ideals.
Which authors are at the center of this study?
The book closely examines Olive Schreiner, Sarah Grand, George Egerton, and Grant Allen, while also engaging with Charlotte Perkins Gilman and other writers. Together, their works reveal the rich interplay between wardrobe choices, literary culture, and feminist identity.
What does “sartorial biography” mean in this context?
Allen-Johnstone traces not only fictional clothing but also the actual wardrobes and fashion practices of the writers themselves. This innovative approach bridges the external appearances of authors with the interior worlds of their creative fictions.
How does this book connect literature to dress history?
By analyzing fiction alongside fashion, publishing, and gender discourse, Allen-Johnstone shows how New Woman writing contributes to our understanding of both feminist literature and fashion history. The book demonstrates how novels themselves can serve as sources for fashion history.
Praise for the Book
- “This fascinating book offers an entirely new way of thinking about the New Woman—as she saw the world and the world saw her. Choice of dress was crucial to women’s independence at the end of the nineteenth century—and we still have much to learn from the pioneering women writers who understood just what was at stake in sartorial politics. This illuminating and thought-provoking study will change the way you think about New Woman fiction.” —Fiona Stafford, Professor of English Language and Literature, University of Oxford
- “This welcome publication offers an intriguing glimpse into the great potential of fiction as a source for fashion history. Bringing new attention to New Woman authors and their works, Claire Allen-Johnstone highlights their contribution to more complete understandings of the forces of dress reform and creation of gender identities at the end of the nineteenth century. Detailed analysis of traces of the novelists’ own wardrobes and approaches to fashion bring their external appearances together with their interior, creative fictions, promoting wider awareness of the critical role of such sartorial biographies.” —Jenny Lister, Curator, Fashion and Textiles, 1800-1900, Victoria and Albert Museum
Why This Book Belongs in Academic and Personal Libraries
- For Academic Libraries: An essential resource for courses and research in feminist literature, Victorian studies, dress history, and gender studies. Its interdisciplinary approach makes it valuable across English, history, and cultural studies.
- For Personal Libraries: A thought-provoking, beautifully written study for scholars, graduate students, and enthusiasts of feminist writing and fashion history.
- For Both: Brings together literary interpretation, material culture, and gender politics—making it a rare, cross-disciplinary work that appeals to multiple fields and readers.
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Dress, Feminism, and New Woman Writing is an essential resource for:
- Academic libraries expanding collections in women’s writing, fashion, and gender studies.
- Instructors teaching courses on Victorian literature, feminist history, or dress and culture.
- Individual readers and scholars who want to understand how clothing shaped—and was shaped by—the feminist imagination.
Available from Cambria Press. Preview the book at cambriapress.com/DressFeminismNewWomanWriting